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\begin{document}

\title{Exeter Chess Club: General advice on the endgame: \\ 1 key idea, 3
  principles, 15 general laws, 12 practical guides and 6 tips for the
  ending}

\author{Dr. Dave}

\maketitle
\tableofcontents


\section{One key idea: the passed pawn.
}

\begin{enumerate}


\item
Endgames, and some middlegames, are all about creating and advancing a
passed pawn.  Either the pawn queens, or your opponent gets so tied up
in knots trying to stop it that they lose something else. 
\end{enumerate}





\section{3 principles (Fine)}

\begin{enumerate}

 \item
Without pawns, you must be at least a Rook ahead in order to
force mate (exceptions: R+R wins against two minor pieces; four minor
pieces win against a Queen)
 \item
If you are two or more Pawns ahead the win should be routine by
advancing the Pawns
 \item
With only one Pawn advantage, you will win if you can use it to
gain more material - it is not usually enough just to advance the
Pawn.  Often one Pawn advantage is thought to be a theoretical draw,
although the practical difficulties may be very great.  Winning by the
advance of the Pawn may be won because it allows entry with the King,
or causes distraction from one vulnerable side, or allows
simplification into a known won ending. 
 \end{enumerate}





\section{15 general laws (Fine again) }

\begin{enumerate}

 \item
Doubled, isolated and blockaded pawns are weak: avoid them! 
 \item
Passed pawns should be advanced as rapidly as possible.
 \item
If you are one or two pawns ahead, exchange pieces but not pawns.
 \item
If you are one or two pawns behind, exchange pawns but not pieces.
 \item
If you have an advantage, leave pawns on both sides of the board.
 \item
If you are just one pawn ahead, in 99 cases out of 100 the game
is drawn if there are pawns on only one side of the board. 
 \item
The easiest endings to win are pure King+Pawn endings.
 \item
The easiest endings to draw are those with opposite coloured bishops.
 \item
The King is a strong piece: use it!
 \item
Do not place pawns on the colour of your bishop.
 \item
Bishops are better than knights in all except blocked pawn positions
 \item
Two bishops vs. B\&N or N\&N are usually a real advantage.
 \item
Passed pawns should not be blockaded by the king: the only piece
which is not much harmed by watching over an opponent's pawn is the
knight. 
 \item
A rook on the seventh rank is worth a pawn.
 \item
Rooks belong behind passed pawns, of your own or the opponent.
 \end{enumerate}




\section{12 practical tips (Mednis)}

\begin{enumerate}

 \item
The king is a fighting piece and should be centralised and used
actively. 
 \item
Material advantage wins endgames: hold on to your material.
 \item
Be wary of sacrificing pawns for development: only in Rook+Pawn
endings is an active piece worth material. 
 \item
Try and gain tempi whenever possible, but without giving up material.
 \item
The fewer the pieces, the more important the pawns
 \item
Keep a flexible, sound pawn formation: avoid doubled, isolated
and blockaded pawns. 
 \item
Passed pawns must be pushed.
 \item
The outside passed pawn is an advantage: in King\&Pawns endings it
is decisive. 
 \item
Rooks belong behind passed pawns.
 \item
In open positions the two bishops are murder: in most other
positions they are a real advantage. 
 \item
In open or semi-open positions a bishop is usually superior to a
knight. 
 \item
The knight is superior to the bishop in blocked positions or when
the bishop is hemmed in by pawns on the same colour squares as the
bishop. 

\end{enumerate}







 
\paragraph{COOL TIP: MEDNIS says `good technique' means:}

\begin{enumerate}

\item
not allowing counterplay

\item
holding on to material advantage

\item
establishing a clear plan and following it

\item
being careful

\item
never being in a hurry

\item
avoiding complications (and ... winning the game!)

\end{enumerate}





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